Colored Diamond Rings: A Complete Guide to Fancy Colors, Rarity, Grading and Buying

Colored Diamond Rings: Colors, Rarity and Buying Guide

What is a colored diamond ring? A colored diamond ring is set with a “fancy color” diamond, pink, blue, yellow, green, brown or black, whose color comes from trace elements or crystal defects. Only about 1 in 10,000 diamonds has natural fancy color, and the stronger the color, the more valuable the stone.

Key Takeaways

  • “Only one in 10,000 diamonds has a fancy color,” according to GIA — GIA
  • Blue comes from boron, yellow from nitrogen, and about 99.5% of pink diamonds get their color from distortion in the crystal structure, not impurities — GIA
  • GIA grades colored diamonds on hue, tone and saturation, choosing from 27 hues, with terms such as Fancy Light, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid — GIA
  • Australia’s Argyle mine supplied over 90% of the world’s pink diamonds before closing in 2020 — Wikipedia
  • Red is the rarest color; yellow and brown (champagne) are the most affordable
  • Many colored diamonds are treated or lab-grown, so always buy with a report that states the color’s origin
Colored diamond ring guide hero with pink, yellow and blue diamond rings

What is a colored diamond ring?

A colored diamond ring features a diamond with distinct, saturated color rather than the near-colorless look of a traditional diamond. Most diamonds are graded on how close they are to colorless, but fancy colored diamonds are valued for the opposite reason: the more vivid the color, the more valuable the stone.

colored diamond ring03

From brilliant blues and pinks to vivid yellows and rich browns, colored diamonds make striking diamond engagement rings, wedding bands and cocktail rings. Think of the fire of a well-cut diamond, but in color. For more ways to stand out, see our guide to unique diamond rings.

What causes the color in colored diamonds?

Colored diamonds form deep in the earth just like colorless ones, but trace elements or defects in the crystal change how they absorb light. The main causes are well understood by gemologists.

Colored diamond ring stone colors: pink, blue, yellow, green, champagne and black diamonds
The main fancy diamond colors, each with a different cause.
ColorMain causeRarityLearn more
RedCrystal deformation (550 nm absorption band)Rarest; only a handful knownred diamonds.
PinkPlastic deformation of the crystal latticeVery rarepink diamonds
BlueTrace boronRareblue diamonds
GreenNatural radiation exposureRareUsually surface-colored
YellowTrace nitrogenMost common fancy colorYellow Diamonds
Brown / champagneDeformation and vacancy clustersMost affordableChampagne Rings
BlackDense mineral inclusionsOften treatedBlack diamond rings

Pink color is not caused by an impurity: GIA researchers found that “the color of 99.5% of pink diamonds comes from distortion in their crystal structure,” created by plastic deformation deep in the earth (GIA). Blue is the opposite: GIA notes that “less than one boron atom per million of carbon atoms can give a diamond a blue color” (GIA).

Most brown color also comes from deformation, while green diamonds are colored by natural radiation after they form (GIA Gems & Gemology). Whatever the color, a diamond keeps its 10 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Colored diamond ring key numbers: 1 in 10,000, 99.5% pink from crystal distortion, 27 hues, boron, 90% pinks from Argyle, 2020
The science and scarcity behind colored diamonds, all sourced in the text.

How rare and valuable are colored diamonds?

Value follows rarity. Red is the rarest, followed by pink and blue, while yellow and brown are the most common and affordable. Large, vivid stones in the rarest colors are among the most valuable gems in the world.

Colored diamond rarity, from rarest to most affordable RARESTRedOnly a handful of natural reds knownVERY RAREPinkOver 90% came from Argyle, closed 2020RAREBlueColored by trace boronRAREGreenColored by natural radiationMORE COMMONYellowNitrogen; most common fancy colorMOST AFFORDABLEBrown / champagneWidely available, great value

Supply of pinks tightened after Australia’s Argyle mine, which produced over 90% of the world’s pink diamonds, stopped mining in November 2020 (Wikipedia). The most famous blue is the 45.52-carat The Hope Diamond, colored by boron and now on display at the Smithsonian (Wikipedia).

Because natural colored diamonds are so scarce, top stones have been bought as stores of wealth, but the market is specialized and prices vary widely. Buy a colored diamond ring because you love it, not as a guaranteed investment.

Are colored diamonds natural, treated or lab-grown?

All three exist, and the price difference is huge. Natural colored diamonds are mined and cut with their color intact. Treated diamonds start as colorless or lightly tinted stones, sometimes “cape” diamonds with a faint yellow tint, whose color is enhanced, for example turning a pale stone into a vivid canary yellow diamond.

The most common treatments are irradiated color followed by annealing. Neutron bombardment can turn a stone green to black throughout, while electron bombardment creates green, blue-green or blue color in a thin skin near the surface; annealing at roughly 500–1,200 °C then shifts colors toward yellow, orange, brown or pink.

colored diamonds 04

Lab-grown colored diamonds are also widely available, and some lab colors such as yellow and blue cost far less than natural ones. GIA’s colored diamond reports state the color origin, natural or treated (GIA), so if a price seems too low for the color, check the report.

How are colored diamonds graded?

GIA grades fancy color on three attributes: hue (the characteristic color), tone (how light or dark) and saturation (the strength of color). Graders choose from 27 hues and combine tone and saturation into terms such as Fancy Light, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid (GIA).

Value generally rises with stronger, purer color, so a Fancy Vivid pink is worth far more than a Fancy Light pink of the same size. Clarity and cut matter less than with colorless diamonds; a cut that intensifies color is often preferred over one that maximizes sparkle.

How do you choose and buy a colored diamond ring?

Start with a color you love, then balance budget, shape and setting. Radiant and cushion cuts are favorites for colored diamonds because they concentrate color, but round, oval, pear and princess shapes all work.

Colored diamond rings in canary yellow, champagne and black set in yellow gold, rose gold and white gold
Metal choice changes how the color reads: yellow gold warms, white metals cool.

Match the metal to the color. Yellow diamonds glow in yellow gold rings, champagne stones suit rose gold, and blue or black diamonds look striking in white gold or platinum. A halo of colorless diamonds can make a colored center look more saturated.

red diamond ring

Always buy with a grading report from a respected lab such as GIA that states the color grade and whether the color is natural, treated or lab-grown. Jewelry stores, specialist dealers, online retailers and auction houses all sell colored diamonds; specialists usually offer the widest choice of natural stones.

How we researched this guide

This evergreen guide updates our original colored diamond article with Anthony Chege’s 20 years of buying and grading fancy colored diamonds. We checked the causes of color and grading terms against GIA research, including a Gems & Gemology study of more than 90,000 pink-range diamonds, and corrected older claims such as manganese causing pink color.

Frequently asked questions about colored diamond rings

What is the rarest diamond color?

Red is the rarest natural diamond color; only a handful of pure red diamonds are known. Pink and blue follow, while yellow and brown are the most common fancy colors.

Are colored diamonds real diamonds?

Yes. Natural colored diamonds are real diamonds whose color comes from trace elements such as boron or nitrogen, or from distortion in the crystal structure. Only about 1 in 10,000 diamonds has natural fancy color.

What makes pink diamonds pink?

According to GIA research, about 99.5% of pink diamonds get their color from distortion in the crystal structure caused by plastic deformation deep in the earth, not from a chemical impurity.

Are colored diamonds more expensive than white diamonds?

Rare colors such as red, pink and blue usually cost far more than colorless diamonds. Yellow and champagne diamonds can cost the same or less than a comparable high-grade colorless diamond.

How can I tell if a colored diamond is natural or treated?

Ask for a grading report from a major lab such as GIA, which states whether the color is natural or treated. Irradiated, annealed and lab-grown colored diamonds cost much less than natural ones.

How are colored diamonds graded?

GIA grades fancy color on hue, tone and saturation, choosing from 27 hues and using terms such as Fancy Light, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid. Stronger, purer color is usually worth more.

Can lab-grown diamonds be colored?

Yes. Lab-grown colored diamonds, especially yellow and blue, are widely available and much cheaper than natural colored diamonds of similar color and saturation.

What causes black diamonds?

Natural black diamonds get their color from dense mineral inclusions, which make them opaque. Many black diamonds on the market are treated to darken their color, so check the report.

Ready for color?

Choose your hue, insist on a report that states color origin, and explore more guides at Diamond Info.

Anthony Chege
About the author: Anthony Chege

Anthony Chege is a gem and jewellery dealer with 20 years’ experience sourcing, grading and selling colorless and fancy colored diamonds. He writes for Diamond Rings Info on diamond grading, pricing and buying.


Diamond Info | Colored Rings

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