What are princess cut diamond engagement rings? Princess cut diamond engagement rings feature a square or slightly rectangular brilliant-cut diamond with sharp, pointed corners and an X-shaped sparkle. It is the most popular square shape and usually costs less than a round diamond of the same weight.
Last updated: October 2026 · Checked against GIA guidance and The Knot’s engagement ring data
Key Takeaways
- The modern princess cut was created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar, Ygal Perlman and Israel Itzkowitz; its technical name is the “square modified brilliant” — Wikipedia
- Princess cuts were about 30% of engagement rings in 2015 and about 8% in 2025, as ovals surged — Rapaport
- GIA’s cut grade covers round brilliants only, so judge a princess cut on polish, symmetry and proportions — GIA
- The four pointed corners are the weak spot; V-prongs or a bezel should protect every corner
- Square rough keeps more weight when cut as a princess, which is why princess cuts usually cost less than rounds
- G–H color and VS2–SI1 clarity give the best value for most princess cut buyers
What are princess cut diamond engagement rings?
Princess cut diamond engagement rings are set with a square or slightly rectangular diamond cut in a brilliant style. Viewed from above it shows a crisp X pattern, and from the side it looks like an inverted pyramid with four beveled sides (Wikipedia).
Because it is faceted like a round brilliant rather than step cut, a princess cut delivers lively sparkle while giving a clean, modern square outline. It works for engagement rings, wedding bands and men’s rings alike.
Where did the princess cut diamond come from?
The princess cut is a modern invention with roots in the old French cut. The name was first applied in the 1960s to the “profile cut” created by cutter Arpad Nagy, and other square brilliants such as the barion and quadrillion cuts followed (Wikipedia).
The princess cut we know today was created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar, Ygal Perlman and Israel Itzkowitz. It became a sought-after alternative to the round through the 1980s and 1990s and is still the leading square brilliant.
Why are princess cut engagement rings so popular?
Princess cuts combine strong sparkle, a sharp modern look and good value. A square rough crystal, especially a deep one, can be cut into a princess with far less waste than a round brilliant, so more of the original weight is kept and the finished stone usually costs less per carat.
The corners also give it a size advantage: a princess cut covers more area than a round diamond whose diameter equals the princess’s width. And because it is a brilliant cut, it sparkles more than square step cuts such as the Asscher, though its corners let a little light leak out compared with a round.
Its popularity has shifted over time. Princess cuts made up about 30% of engagement rings in 2015 (Wikipedia); by 2025 they were about 8%, level with emerald, pear and marquise, as round (26%) and oval (25%) led (Rapaport). That makes a princess a more distinctive choice today.
How does the princess cut compare to other diamond shapes?
The princess is the sparkliest square shape with the sharpest corners. Cushion cuts soften the corners, while Asscher and emerald cuts use step facets for a cooler, mirror-like look.
| Shape | Outline | Facet style | Look | Corner risk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Princess | Square, pointed corners | Brilliant | Crisp X sparkle | Higher; needs protection |
| Cushion | Square or oblong, rounded corners | Brilliant | Soft, romantic fire | Low |
| Asscher | Square, cropped corners | Step cut | Hall-of-mirrors, vintage | Low to moderate |
| Emerald | Rectangle, cropped corners | Step cut | Elegant flashes, shows clarity | Low to moderate |
| Round | Circle | Brilliant | Maximum sparkle | Low |
Compare the step cuts in our guides to emerald cut rings and Asscher cut rings, or see softer squares in cushion cut rings. For more unusual outlines, explore pear shaped rings, the boat-like marquise diamond ring and triangular trillion rings.
What should you look for in a princess cut diamond?
Focus on cut quality, eye-clean clarity, color that suits your metal and a trustworthy grading report. There is no universally agreed “ideal” princess cut, and GIA does not grade the overall proportions of fancy shapes, so look for Excellent or Very Good polish and symmetry instead (GIA). Learn more about cut.
For a light-performance grade, GIA now offers the AGS Ideal Report as a supplement for fancy shapes after the American Gem Society closed its lab at the end of 2022 (National Jeweler). For an independent opinion, members of the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA) can assess a stone in person.
Brilliant faceting hides small inclusions well, so VS2 or SI1 is often eye-clean, but avoid inclusions near the corners, where they can weaken the point. G or H color balances whiteness and value; see our clarity chart and color chart, and always verify the grading report number online with the lab. A very square princess has a length-to-width ratio close to 1.00; higher numbers look more rectangular.
Which settings best protect a princess cut diamond?
Choose a setting that covers all four corners. V-shaped prongs that wrap each point are the classic choice, and a bezel or half-bezel gives even more protection for active lifestyles. Compare options in our ring setting guide.
Popular princess styles include the solitaire, a square halo, side stones set in channels along the band and the three-stone ring, often said to represent past, present and future. Vintage designs with milgrain and princess cuts paired with sapphires or emeralds add a personal touch.
How do you care for a princess cut engagement ring?
Clean it regularly, protect the corners and have the setting checked once a year. Soak the ring in warm water with mild soap, brush gently with a soft toothbrush, rinse and dry with a soft cloth.
Diamonds are the hardest natural material but can still chip, especially at a princess’s points, so take the ring off for sports, gardening and heavy work. Remove it before using chlorine or bleach, which can weaken prongs, and store it separately in a fabric-lined box so it doesn’t scratch other jewelry.
How we researched this guide
This evergreen guide updates our original princess cut article with Anthony Chege’s 20 years of cutting, grading and setting princess cut diamonds. We checked the history, grading and popularity figures against GIA, National Jeweler and The Knot’s study of more than 10,000 couples, and removed outdated lab references.
Frequently asked questions about princess cut diamond engagement rings
What is a princess cut diamond?
A princess cut is a square or slightly rectangular brilliant-cut diamond with sharp, pointed corners and an X-shaped pattern when viewed from above. Its technical name is the square modified brilliant.
Who invented the princess cut?
The name was first used in the 1960s for Arpad Nagy's profile cut. The modern princess cut was created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar, Ygal Perlman and Israel Itzkowitz.
Are princess cut diamonds cheaper than round diamonds?
Usually, yes. A princess cut keeps more of a square rough crystal's weight than a round brilliant, so princess diamonds typically cost less per carat than rounds of similar quality.
Do princess cut diamonds chip easily?
Their four sharp corners are the most vulnerable point. Protect them with V-prongs or a bezel setting, avoid inclusions near the corners, and take the ring off for sports and heavy work.
Does GIA give princess cut diamonds a cut grade?
No. GIA's cut grade covers standard round brilliants only. For a princess, check the polish and symmetry grades, the proportions, and how the stone looks in person or on video.
What color and clarity are best for a princess cut?
G to H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity offer the best value for most buyers. Brilliant faceting hides small inclusions well, but avoid any inclusion near a corner.
Is a princess cut or cushion cut better?
A princess cut has sharper corners and crisper, more modern sparkle. A cushion cut has rounded corners, a softer look and less risk of chipping. Both are brilliant-style cuts.
Are princess cut engagement rings still popular?
Yes, though less dominant than before. Princess cuts were about 30% of engagement rings in 2015 and about 8% in 2025, making them a distinctive choice today.
Choosing your princess cut?
Check the polish and symmetry, protect the corners with V-prongs, and explore more shapes and guides at Diamond Info.
Anthony Chege is a gem and jewellery dealer with 20 years’ experience sourcing, grading, setting and selling diamonds and engagement rings. He writes for Diamond Rings Info on diamond grading, pricing and buying.
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